Why is my Whirlpool front load dryer not heating?

One of the things that can make your laundry day unpleasant is having Whirlpool front load dryer not heating problems.

Do you call in a technician? Rush your wet laundry to the laundromat? Or, hope that your neighbor allows you to use their dryer?

As you can see, you have several options but you might want to hold on for a second… What if I showed you how to fix your dryer like the professionals (even if you do not have any repair experience)?

Of course, this will save you time and money.

Well, read on to know how to solve your Whirlpool front load dryer not heating problems – both gas and electric models.

Whirlpool front load dryer not heating – causes and possible fixes

Before proceeding, disconnect your dryer from the power outlet and disassemble it to get access to the heating/burner assembly.

The thermal cut-off fuse might be faulty

You will find the thermal cut-off fuse on the surface of your dryer’s heating assembly – usually towards the back.

Once you locate it, first confirm that its wire connections are good – replace any wires that might be broken.

If the wires are good, remove the fuse and use a multimeter to check for continuity between its terminals… If the fuse is good, it should have continuity.

So, if your thermal cut-off fuse lacks continuity, it means it’s bad and will need replacing.

View the prices by clicking below, depending on model.

Whirpool and Kenmore Dryers

Samsung, Maytag electric Dryers

KitchenAid, Estate, Roper, Inglis,  KitchenAid, Amana,Crosley,  Magic Chef,Admiralelectric Dryers

High-limit thermostat (inlet thermistor) could be bad

Typically, you will find the high-limit thermostat on the heating assembly – just next to the heater terminals.

To troubleshoot the inlet thermistor, start by checking the wire connections to the thermostat… If the connections are broken, be sure to fix/replace them.

Pro tip: If the inlet thermistor’s wire connections are bad, your dryer will display either F:24 or F:25 codes when in diagnostic mode.

Next, remove the thermostat and blow some heat onto it – you can use a hair dryer.

Something else: Use a bulb thermometer (that can read up to 176⁰ F) to read the current temperature on the thermostat.

Using a multimeter, check the resistance of the thermostat at various temperatures and compare your reading to those in the table below:

Temp in ⁰F Resistance in kΩ
68 61.2-63.7
77 49.0-51.0
86 39.5-41.1
95 32.0-33.3
104 26.1-27.2
113 21.4-22.3
122 17.6-18.5
131 14.6-15.3
140 12.1-12.8
149 10.2-10.7
158 8.5-9
167 7.2-7.6
176 6.1-6.5

If the resistance you are getting does not agree with these readings, it might mean that your thermostat is bad.

And since the high-limit thermostat is not a fixable part, your best bet is to purchase a replacement thermostat and swap out the old one.

Below are brand-specific links to our recommended replacement part (for the most common dryer brands)

Dryer brand High-limit thermostat replacement
Samsung Get it on Amazon
GE Get it on Amazon
LG, Kenmore Get it on Amazon
Maytag, Whirlpool, KitchenAid Get it on Amazon
Frigidaire, Electrolux Get it on Amazon
Amana Get it on Amazon

Whirlpool front load dryer won’t get hot – other things you can try

Some fixes are not universal to all models. Instead, some apply only to electric models while others apply to front load models.

With that in mind, also try the fixes below depending on your dryer type.

Electric Whirlpool front load dryer not heating – what to do

The circuit breaker might be half-tripped

As you know, electric dryers need 240v AC to work properly.

It could be that one of the two 120v AC circuit breaker lines has tripped in this case the one responsible for the heating element leg.

To fix this, reset your circuit breaker so that both legs are on.

Heating element could be bad

Start by checking if any of the element’s coils are broken – broken coils indicate a bad element and its remedy is to get a new heating element.

Next, confirm that the connections from the heating element to the control board are good… Reinsert any loose wire connectors and replace any broken wires.

Moving on…

Using a multimeter, test for continuity through the two heating element terminals.

If there is no continuity, it means your heating element is faulty.

To fix a bad heating element, you will need to replace it with a good one – shop for a replacement element on Amazon.

If there’s continuity between the terminals, remove the P4 connector (on the control board) and measure resistance between P4-3 and P4-6 (both red wires) at the connector.

If the reading is less than 1kΩ, it means the exhaust thermistor (cycling thermostat) is to blame… Since there is no way to fix a bad thermostat, you should replace it – (it’s sold as a complete repair kit).

On the other hand, if your reading is between 5 and 15 kΩ, it means the control board is bad in which case you ought to replace it – it’s a little pricey at Amazon

Whirlpool front load gas dryer not heating – how to troubleshoot and fix

Of course, start by making sure the gas valve to the dryer is fully open and that there is gas supply.

The gas valve solenoid might be bad

The solenoid is responsible for releasing gas to the heating assembly and if it’s bad, it might not release gas to the assembly.

Using a multimeter, test for continuity through the solenoid’s terminals – the solenoid is bad if there is no continuity.

If the solenoid is bad, you should replace it – see it at Amazon.

The radiant flame sensor might be gone

This sensor detects the temperature inside the burner assembly and controls the opening and closing of the gas valve solenoid.

Usually, you will find the flame sensor on the surface of the burner assembly.

With that in mind, use a multimeter to test if the sensor is bad – test for continuity between its terminals.

If it lacks continuity, it’s bad and you should swap it out – shop for a replacement flame sensor at Amazon.

The igniter might be to blame

The igniter is responsible for lighting the gas hence if it is bad, it might result in your Whirlpool front load gas dryer not heating.

To see if it’s good, use a multimeter to check for continuity between its terminals – no continuity means the igniter is bad.

Unfortunately, this part is not fixable… The only option is to get a durable replacement igniter (full repair kit) and swap the bad one.

The control board might be to blame – both gas and electric models

Finally, if you have tried all the above but still can’t locate the source of the problem, chances are that the control board is gone.

As a result, it might not be receiving or sending the right signals to the heating components.

To fix the control board, first try resetting the dryer.

How do I reset my Whirlpool front load dryer?

Unplug the dryer from the power outlet and let it sit for five minutes.

If you do not have access to the power outlet, trip the circuit breaker for five minutes.

After powering on the dryer, test it to see if it now heats.

If not, try the other possible fixes below…

Check the control board for any burnt relays and replace them – order a similar relay on eBay and solder it.

However, if no relay is burnt, your remaining fix is to get an OEM replacement control board to replace the faulty one.

Pro tip: Make sure the replacement board you are getting is compatible with your dryer – its part number should match the one on the old board.

Whirlpool front load dryer not heating – parting words

If your dryer is brand new (or still under warranty), it is not advisable to try the tests above. This is because disassembling the dryer voids the warranty.

Instead, contact Whirlpool to have them send a technician to fix the dryer for you.


Gas dryer not getting hot [Fixed]

Why is my electric dryer not getting hot?

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